HEISUKE NOZAKI ｜ PUMA JAPAN MARKETING

Heisuke Nozaki
Although he is an employee of PUMA JAPAN, he is also a world-renowned sneaker fanatic. He has experience with not only PUMA but also various other sneakers, and has owned over 1,000 pairs of sneakers to date. His knowledge and love for sneakers is immeasurable, and he is trusted and supported by sneaker freaks all over the world. This is a conversation with Nozaki, one of the indispensable and important figures in the Japanese sneaker scene.

–– First, please tell us about your career.

N: I work in the Marketing Department at Puma Japan Co., Ltd. I'm involved in internal approval of visuals and PR for collaborative models with business partners, and helping with in-store presentations. I joined the predecessor company of Puma Japan in 1996, so that was about 28 years ago. I've been here for 29 years now, but I've been in sales for over 20 years since I joined the company as a new employee. I was transferred to the Marketing Department about five years ago, and I've been in my current department for about two years. Before that, I was in charge of PR and worked at PUMA HOUSE here in Minami-Aoyama.

–– You have quite an unusual career history.

N: Yes, I don't think there are many people at Puma with a background like mine, where someone has worked in sales for a long time and then gets transferred to marketing in their late 40s.

–– So your experience in sales is still useful to you today. I often see you on social media, and I think you have quite a few sneakers. I always feel your passion for sneakers.

N: Thank you.

–– You still have a strong passion for sneakers. What made you fall in love with them?

N: I first became aware of sneakers when I was in the fifth grade of elementary school. I'm 53 now, so that was 42 years ago. At that time, sports shoes were only sold at sports stores, and there were no sneaker shops like there are today. Sports brand shoes were the object of admiration because of their beautiful color schemes, designs, and high prices. In elementary school, kids who are fast runners or good at sports become like heroes in the class, right? At that time, some of my classmates started wearing shoes from those sports brands. Seeing that, as someone who was wearing sneakers from a Japanese rubber manufacturer at the time, I felt that I could run faster in sports shoes with color schemes I had never seen before. I admired that aspect of sports shoes, and the impact I felt at that time continues to this day.

–– I see, so it wasn’t just Puma that got you started?

N: No, the first sports brand shoes I bought were Puma running shoes called PUMA SM RIDER. They had bumpy protrusions on the outsole. I actually wanted FAST RIDER shoes, but at the time FAST RIDER was made in West Germany and cost 18,000 yen! It was hard to get your parents to buy you a pair of shoes when you were in the 5th grade. So I saved up my New Year's money and pocket money from helping out at home and bought an Asian-made SM RIDER. It was like an entry-level model of FAST RIDER. I still treasure it!

–– Continuing on from that, I think you have a lot of rare sneakers and old archives. I think you collect a lot of things, not just Puma, but how many sneakers do you buy each month?

N: I wonder how much... I think I buy about four or five pairs a month at most.

–– Wow! How many sneakers do you own in total now?

N: I haven't counted them yet, but I think I probably have over 1000 pairs. What do you think? Maybe 1000 pairs is an exaggeration...

–– That's amazing! Among them, what are your top three recent favorites?

N: It depends on the time. This time, I'll talk about my top three Puma shoes. I think I have a strong image of old heritage sneakers, but I actually like their latest basketball shoes too.

The ALL PRO NITRO model is worn by many players in the NBA. The Christmas edition of the ALL PRO NITRO (a collaboration model with the 2004 film "Polar Express" directed by Robert Zemeckis) was released, and it's the sneaker I bought just recently, and I really like it. In fact, a collaboration model with Gremlins was released with the ALL PRO NITRO last year. Every December, PUMA BASKETBALL releases such collaboration models. I bought the Gremlin collaboration at the same time as the first one a year ago, so I would like to continue collecting them.

I love classic sneakers because they come in beautiful colors and are easy to match with any outfit, but at the same time, I want to keep up with the latest performance shoes.

N: Other than ALL PRO NITRO, the one I'm wearing today is the KICKS LAB. exclusive model PALERMO MIJ KL SPORT. I really like this PALERMO MIJ!

The silhouette is different from the Palermo in-line model that is sold globally, and the use of materials is unique or individual. The reason I'm wearing it today is because I feel that the KICKS LAB. special order model has a "wonderful" material choice, which is also common to the DELPHIN OG MIJ.

-- thank you!!

N: The KICKS LAB. custom model has a nostalgic look, but is finished in a modern style, and the longer you wear it, the more you can enjoy the changes that occur over time, which is unique to the use of different materials. This is probably because the choice of materials is so exquisite. That's one of the reasons I like it.

N: I also bought a few pairs of the global model PALERMO. It is one of Puma's key models and is a focus for this fall and winter.

The original shoes were only made for one year, from 1981 to 1982. To put it bluntly, they may not have been very successful at the time. PALERMO is a combination of nylon and suede. It's actually very innovative, using nylon, which was often used for running shoes at the time, for training shoes. I think it really shows Puma's development spirit. I'm attracted to the parts that have a performance smell, so I have a strong attachment to it.

–– Does PALERMO still have any archives from that time?

N: The Puma headquarters is taking the initiative in reissuing the PALERMO. There are collectors in Europe of so-called terrace-type multi-training shoes and indoor training shoes like the PALERMO. I think they borrowed their archives from that time, scanned them, and made them into products.

–– I'm glad I got to hear these stories. Next, from your perspective as a sneaker fan, rather than as a Puma employee, what is the appeal of Puma sneakers?

N: I think of Puma as a brand with a long history that is always challenging itself. For example, I think the passion they put into reproducing archives and the passion they put into creating new products are created with the same vector and power. The image I have of Puma shoes is that they are a brand that makes things with great sincerity. That's what's so attractive about them!

–– If you look at the vintage market, there aren't many Puma sneakers, are there? I get the impression that they are very valuable sneakers. Puma fans are especially passionate about vintage sneakers! What's more, new models are also commercialized using Puma's latest technology, and it's interesting that they are being passed down to the future.

N: That's true. It's hard to find old Puma shoes even if you look for them. They're used in sports and are consumed, so there aren't many left. They weren't produced in large numbers either.

Also, unlike today, in the past, distributors, not subsidiaries, were responsible for distribution in each country. For that reason, there were many local models. There were fewer models available globally than there are now, and the distribution volume of each model was not large. So even if you try to find old Puma shoes, it's hard to find them. In that sense, it's a very dreamy thing. I think the appeal of vintage Puma is that the prices are not that high considering the small number of them, so it's easy for people who like them to buy them.

–– Thank you. Speaking of Puma sneakers, KICKS LAB. has released custom models many times in the past. JPN SUEDE 81BASTARDS for KICKS LAB. (2017) and JPN CLYDE for KICKS LAB. (2017) were particularly well received. I think one of the reasons why Puma's Made in Japan products are so highly regarded is the high quality. Why does Puma continue to make Made in Japan models, and what do you expect from Made in Japan models?

N: That's right. The reason we continue to make Made in Japan products is because we want more sneaker fans to know about the greatness of Japanese manufacturing. Not just in Japan, but sneaker fans all over the world.

The models sold globally are made loosely for the last, so they are made to be comfortable and fit any foot shape. On the other hand, the ones made in Japan are adjusted by hand by craftsmen after machine fitting, so the heel is compact like old sports shoes and expresses a beautiful silhouette. When you put on the shoes that are just the right size, you hear a "push" sound when you put your foot in, like when you put on leather shoes. I think there is a point in making shoes made in Japan in terms of the beauty of the silhouette and the shoes that express the lines faithfully to the last. I think globally probably sees Japanese models in the same way as we do.

–– Even on a global scale, it seems that "Made in Japan" and the production background behind it are quite valuable! What do you think of the reaction from overseas fans?

N: I also use social media, so I'm connected with sneaker fans all over the world, and I feel that Puma fans are especially passionate. When a Made in Japan model comes out, the direct mail is amazing! They try to get it somehow. Like the KICKS LAB. special order, there are many items that are only sold in Japan, so how can I buy this? Do they ship overseas? We get a lot of inquiries like that, so I think sneaker fans all over the world recognize the high quality and sense of security of Japanese products. It's like a brand in a way!

–– So it seems like there is always a demand for it!

N: Yes, that's what I think every day as I go about my work! (laughs)

–– Next, please tell us about the PUMA DELPHIN products that this special edition model is based on and their history.

N: DELPHIN is a training shoe that has been featured in the Japanese catalog since 1973. The characteristic of training shoes from this period is that they use a thin rubber cup sole. They are characterized by their grip, light weight and high durability. The same specifications are also featured in the 1975 catalog, but up until that time they were blue/white in color.

N: As I mentioned before, the sole is thinner than the collaboration model. It is easier to grip and is designed to give you a feeling as close to barefoot as possible when training.

In 1976, the contact sole was developed. It is a rubber cup sole, but it is thick and partially hollowed out. It has a structure like many small air-filled chambers connected together. When the foot lands, the walls forming the chambers bend to absorb the shock, and the rubber returns to its original shape to cushion the impact. The contact sole was adopted in the basketball and training categories.

N: Looking at the 1978 catalog, we can see that the sole pattern is different from that of the DELPHIN, but it was also used in a shoe called the SUPER BASKET. Since basketball involves jumping and landing, shock absorption was a very important function. The contact sole achieved this. The DELPHIN is a representative training shoe that uses a contact sole. In Japan, it was featured in catalogs from 1973 to 1976. Outside of Japan, it continued to be sold until the late 1970s.

–– I see, so at the time it was only available in Japan for a fairly short period of about 3 to 4 years! In other words, does that mean that the revival of the global inline model in 2022 will be the first time since then?

N: Probably!

–– So this was a long-awaited re-release for Puma’s core fans, wasn’t it?

N: That's right! It's a style called an internal spring, different from the style called an external spring like PUMA SUEDE or CLYDE, and DELPHIN in particular is a design called a throat type, which was often used in football shoes in the past. It has a clean design, unlike the T-shaped bumpers that are trending now. I think that people with high sensitivity are paying attention to this throat type.

–– I see, it does have a lot of history and historical background.
The overall slim and refined silhouette really catches the eye.

N: That's right! I think the sleek and compact design is one of the characteristics of DELPHIN.

–– There are many models that were produced around the same time as DELPHIN, but what is the appeal of the models released during that era?

N: I think the biggest attraction is the coloring. In the past, they used strong dyes to dye the fabric, so the colors were beautiful. I think that's the biggest attraction!

–– Please tell us your impressions of the “PUMA DELPHIN OG MIJ KL REW” being released by KICKS LAB. and your evaluation as a sneaker fan.

N: Yes, I had seen this sample beforehand. It's a design that really respects the original, but I really appreciate that they didn't just make it a direct copy of the original. This is the same with PALERMO, but it wasn't a simple reproduction, and I don't know if it's right to say that it's suited to the current era, but I really felt that it was made through the filter of the store KICKS LAB. In particular, the use of nubuck material for the Puma form strip is a really important point!

N: I spoke to the product development team, and they said that if they used suede, the fluorescent color would not be as bright as this. So I think it's great that they chose this nubuck material for the Formstrip. The original is made of smooth leather, isn't it?

N: The previous PALERMO MIJ KL SPORT was a combination of smooth leather and nubuck. The DELPHIN OG MIJ KL REW is a combination of suede and nubuck. I really felt that this was KICKS LAB. It was really good!

N: The coloring really pays tribute to the original, and while this DELPHIN OG MIJ KL REW is navy, the original was officially blue. When the inline model DELPHIN OG came out, it was made in navy/white, so I think PUMA has a strong awareness of the navy color.

N: This is what the DELPHIN OG MIJ KL REW looks like when worn. I think it would take a long time for the color to fade to this extent, but if they were made with a pale tone close to blue from the beginning, they would become whiter as they age. So I think it's great that they chose a slightly darker navy for the initial tone. I really like how they're classic but not outdated. Also, Mainmade in Japan shoes use cup insoles, which make them comfortable and fit well. I like the updated feel that is contrary to their appearance.

–– We were particularly particular about the navy tone, and thanks to you we were able to achieve the color we envisioned.

In fact, the nubuck material used for the Formstrip is inherited from the previous special order model, “JPN CLYDE for KICKS LAB. (2017).”

N: Ah, I see!!

–– The combination of suede and nubuck brings out the three-dimensionality of the materials, which creates a beautiful contrast and a sense of luxury. This might be a bit out of your league, but isn’t nubuck actually a high-end material? (laughs)

N: That's right (laughs) You're right, nubuck is a luxury material!

–– It’s expensive, but we continue to do it. And we produce it in Japan with high quality. That’s why we use nubuck.

N: Wow, I think the material choice is amazing!

–– Thank you. Speaking of the PUMA DELPHIN OG MIJ KL REW, from your perspective, is there a type of customer that you would like to wear them or that you would recommend them to?

N: Most of all, I would love to have OGs who love the classic Puma shoes wear them! Also, although the price is higher if they are made in Japan, I would be happy if young people who wear PALERMO shoes would wear them as their next pair of shoes.

–– They're very different sneakers and very interesting.

N: That's right. When you compare the DELPHIN and PALERMO like this, you can see that although their appearances are different, they also share commonalities as they are both training shoes.

Also, I feel like there are unspoken rules emerging among KICKS LAB.'s special order models, like how to combine different materials. I think this is what leads to style.

––Thank you. The beautiful silhouette of the DELPHIN OG MIJ really stands out compared to other models.

N: That's right. In the case of PALERMO, the holes for the laces are arranged inwards and outwards depending on the location, so the laces are threaded in a zigzag pattern that creates a three-dimensional effect, but the holes for the DELPHIN are arranged in a straight line, so I think that the design makes the whole shoe look sharp.

–– Next, looking ahead to the future of Puma, what new initiatives is the brand taking on?

N: As many of you may already know, they are already available in stores, but the heritage models from the 70s and 80s and shoes from the early 2000s such as MOSTRO and AVANTI are being released at the same time. I hope you will look forward to how this trend will develop in the 2025 season. Even if you say that they are reissue models of shoes from the 70s and 80s, they may be too old for today's 20-somethings to understand.

However, I think I will feel a strong sense of affinity with sneakers from the 2000s, the era in which I was born.

We would like to work with various departments both inside and outside the company to determine how Puma can make its presence felt in the modern sneaker scene, where the interpretation of classic style has broadened.

–– I see, PUMA will be one to watch in the future! Next, from your perspective, Mr. Nozaki, what are your impressions of our store, KICKS LAB., and what are your expectations for KICKS LAB. in the future?

N: KICKS LAB. is a store that I have a special attachment to, as it was opened when I was in sales and I was in charge of it. The store has always been based in Harajuku, Tokyo, with the same stance. I think that's the style, or the uniqueness of KICKS LAB. They carry a variety of brands, including outdoor items and products from global brands. They have sneakers and boots. To me, it's a sneaker shop, but it's also like a shoe store.

There's a lot to choose from and I think they've created a fun store.

–– Thank you very much. I will share your message with the whole company. (Laughs)

N: (laughs) I really think so! I buy a lot of things from them too.

I don't think there are many sneaker shops like that in Harajuku.

I'm really grateful and thankful that they have been able to continue offering a wide range of products like KICKS LAB. at their Harajuku location for so long. I hope that they will continue to do so in the future!

N: What I think is great about KICKS LAB. is that each brand expresses its own unique worldview.

Isn't there a limit to how many products you can display in a store? I'm really grateful that the brand's direction is expressed in the store.

It really makes me feel like they have an intention to work together with manufacturers and cooperate in sales, so as a manufacturer myself, I'm very grateful and thankful!

–– Thank you! Finally, to those who have read this article, I would like you to tell us what the appeal of the “PUMA DELPHIN OG MIJ KL REW” is.

N: This may be a bit repetitive, but the most appealing thing about this is that it's not just a reprint.

It's a shoe that is packed with the feelings that were put into it while still showing the utmost respect for the original.

N: What I would like to ask of the staff working in the store is for them to convey the story behind this product to customers. I think that is the most important thing.

KICKS LAB. carries a variety of brands, and I believe that each shoe they sell has been selected for a reason. I would be happy if you could convey this to the young people who come to the store and to the OG sneaker lovers.

–– We would love to become a store that can convey the greatness of the PUMA brand.

Thank you very much for your valuable talk today!